1680/8 rolex | rolex 1680 bezel

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The Rolex Submariner 1680, particularly the coveted 1680/8 variant, represents a fascinating chapter in the history of this iconic dive watch. Its allure stems from a confluence of factors: its robust construction, its compelling history, and its relatively rare status within the Submariner lineage. While a pristine example can command prices well above $10,000, understanding the nuances of this specific reference is crucial for any prospective buyer or enthusiast. This article will delve deep into the world of the 1680/8, exploring its key features, variations, and the factors influencing its value.

The Rolex 1680: A Foundation of Excellence

Before focusing on the 1680/8, it's essential to understand its predecessor, the Rolex Submariner reference 1680. Introduced in 1966, the 1680 marked a significant evolution in the Submariner line. It featured a larger, 40mm case compared to its earlier counterparts, a more substantial feel, and the incorporation of a date function, a feature highly sought after by divers and everyday wearers alike. The 1680 was the first Submariner to incorporate a date window, positioned at 3 o'clock, a design element that has become synonymous with the Submariner ever since. This model also saw improvements in water resistance and overall durability, solidifying its reputation as a reliable and capable professional dive watch.

The 1680/8: Distinguishing Features and the "Red Submariner"

The 1680/8, a specific variant within the 1680 family, is largely distinguished by its distinctive red "Submariner" text on the dial. This detail, seemingly minor, significantly elevates the watch's desirability and value amongst collectors. The "Red Submariner" moniker, earned due to this red text, has cemented its place in horological legend. The transition from the earlier, black-printed "Submariner" to the striking red lettering occurred during the production run of the 1680, leading to a relatively short production period for the 1680/8 variant. This limited production run, combined with the undeniable aesthetic appeal of the red text, contributes to the higher prices commanded by these watches today.

Rolex 1680 Dial Variations: A Collector's Puzzle

The dial of the Rolex 1680, and consequently the 1680/8, presents a fascinating area of study for collectors. Variations exist across several features, including the aforementioned red versus black "Submariner" text, the type and style of the markers, and the presence or absence of certain details. These variations, often subtle, can significantly impact the value of a particular watch. Some dials feature a more matte finish, while others have a glossier appearance. The lume plots, the luminous material used on the hour markers and hands, also show variations in color and aging over time. These subtle differences make identifying and authenticating a genuine 1680/8 a crucial aspect of the collecting process. Understanding these dial variations requires a deep understanding of Rolex's production history and the nuances of aging and wear on vintage timepieces. Detailed photographic references and expert consultation are often invaluable in this process.

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